Engine rpms at idle is set with a screw on the throttle shaft. If the carb is overfilling then the adjustments will not have the desired effect. This adjustment is in lean out rich, depending on the needle itself you may or may not be able to completely close off fuel supply(solid needle will, some are drilled to allow a minimum amount to pass through). Generally start about 1 - 1-1/2 turns from lightly seated then adjust after engine is running. If present an adjustment on bowl is the main/load. Screw on throttle body is to adjust idle mixture, out is leaner, in is richer, generally start about a turn from lightly seated. i obtained a wiring diagram and it is supposed to be a pos ground and that is what i would like to do i got the oil light to work also today and the fuel guage is smashed but i got a new one ina kit with a new tachometer and i doubt if it will work likely the sender is gone i will try it though back to my ideas i had the gen checked and it is polarized to pos i was told by a generator repairman that the coil i have which was put on by previous owner and looks new has an internal resistor so i think i may bypass the porcelin resistor i have also aquired a ammeter guage i woder if it would fit better in the fuel guage hole but i don,t know where to wire that in yet any suggestions are always welcome and thanks to all to take time to help Well that is what i was looking for you made some very fine suggestions especially interested in mmcdonald,s thread i was checking it out earlier and i know the wire to the distributor is connected to the neg terminal on the coil also it is a newer coil as the previous owner tried i beleive to start it but it had a problem in the distributor cap that was the issue of my getting lucky and starting it went to the jd dealer and tryed to get some info they said they can't get any parts for it and they looked up the coil and said it was only supposed to have one wire to the coil and the output to distributor i cant beleive that even my book shows two. PS the fuel sender(if yours has one) usually matters on polarity. do not care what polarity you have grounded, current simply flows from one post to the other. If you have those two things set up, the distributor or starter or lights etc. On this tractor it is probably as simple as swapping the coil connections(distributor always connect to coil terminal that matches battery ground), and repolarizing(flash battery power(your incoming battery wire that will connect to "BAT" does fine) to armature terminal for a split second, DO NOT FLASH THE FIELD TERMINAL) the generator(assuming regulator is either/or type which most are). The positive or negative ground is not really a big deal as long as everything on the tractor has been set up for it. When power to solenoid was removed(engine cranks and start is released) then that bypass would open and the current would pass through the resisted circuit prolonging component life. This put un-resisted current to the coil while the starter was engaged providing more for a stronger spark. I "think" these tractors also had a wire from the starter solenoid relay terminal to the coil(bypassing the resistor wire). You could also replace the resistor wire and original coil with a 3 ohm coil or thereabouts(as long as the coil and whatever resistance(if used) added up to around 3, you're ok). If this resistor wire failed, you could substitute an external resistor (white ceramic block or similar) of around 1.5 ohm for a non-original fix. I "think" originally it used a 1.5 ohm +/- coil and a resistor wire in the harness. I do know it was 12V positive ground from the factory.
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